The History Of The Surfer – The Right Time, The Right Wave

The history of the surfer - the right time, the right wave

Today I want to tell you the story of the surfer. While many will think this is just a narrative, there is still a life lesson behind it. It’s not just about an athlete who daringly swings on his surfboard to ride the waves, but about something very valuable that he has learned from it.

At the end of the surfer’s story, you’ll notice that this actually teaches us something about life – it teaches us something about how to deal with problems. We learn about the gift of being patient and the ability to find the right moment to act, but also the importance of knowing when to wait before taking action later.

The story of the surfer: arriving at the sea

One surfer was crazy about the waves. He loved the feeling of being free that he felt every time he plunged into the incredible, tremendous and breathtaking vagaries of nature in the rough seas.

But the surfer knew very well that you couldn’t just go out to sea without thought and control. He was aware that he had to turn his brain on to choose the right wave, otherwise he would end up in the hospital or it would even end his life.

Girl surfs in cup on the sea

The surfer also always listened to his heart and relied on instinct. Every time a wave approached him, he instinctively knew whether to take it or not. Based on his experience, his convictions and his self-confidence, he was always aware that the right moment had come.

So the surfer went carefully and courageously into the sea. It was a stormy day and the waves crashed on the beach with tremendous force. He knew now was the right time because there weren’t good opportunities to ride huge and liberating waves every day.

Waiting for the right wave

When the surfer got to the beach, he didn’t wait long to go out into the sea. He was afraid of taking the great wave that would bring him freedom and happiness. Because only when he arrives at the top of the wave does he feel at one with it.

But the rougher the sea and the stronger the swell, the less he saw the right moment to plunge into the waves. One by one passed him, but he knew they weren’t his. The opportunity for his adventure had not yet come, so he waited.

The big wave is here

But the surfer knew how important it was to wait. He looked at the panorama. He watched others ride the waves just like him. Some enjoyed the waves and came back unscathed to the coast. Others, on the other hand, tried over and over and kept falling off their boards. He enjoyed the beautiful and picturesque landscape. He exercised patience, knowing that his moment was about to come.

And then there it was – the great wave. He saw her approaching the coast from a long way off. He knew now was the right time. Finally he got the opportunity to take a wave of the very stormy sea, to look at the panorama from high above, to marvel at it, to feel happiness and pleasure in being where you want to be – true moments of happiness.

The surfer got ready and rode the wave like he had never done before. For a short time he was able to accompany the raging wave on its journey. He took it, checked it and let it go again.

wave

He enjoyed every single second in which they both made this wonderful journey together, only to finally arrive at the bank with a joyful and happy smile on their faces.

“If you want to do the right thing, you have to wait and see.”

Antonio García Gutiérrez

What we can learn from it

Our surfer was happy when he could pursue his sporting passion. He had taken the wave like never before. And now he goes into the sea again to wait for the next one. He starts all over again and waits for the right time to come, but in the process he will have a new emotional experience – each time a little wiser, more patient and more aware of what is going on around him.

“Only with staying power will we conquer the shining city that brings light, justice and dignity to all people. So the poetry will not have been in vain. “

Pablo Neruda

Did you notice that the surfer’s story is very similar to our own existence? Those who have the tools to know, to wait for the right moment, and to seize the opportunity will be happy and delighted with the great opportunities that life has in store for us.

Anyone who is impatient is denied all of this. We have to be wise enough to choose the right moments, friends, significant other. We just have to be patient and take the right wave.

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